Shoulder Durability
The climbing season has arrived, nature beckons and workouts in the weight room have tapered off in favour of being fresh for the weekend. However as climbers we should always be concerned about maintenance through mobility. Two recent studies show the demand for this kind of work with around 80% of the climbers surveyed reporting a non-fall injury. These injuries occurred in what Eric Horst calls “the big three”, pulley tear in the tendons of the finger, forms of elbow tendonitis and shoulder instability or dislocation. For this post we will focus on the third of these, Shoulder instability.
Now before we start I have a golden rule for you. Listen to your body. They don’t sell extra’s and the bits you can replace are expensive and janky. Lets preserve this kickass one you’ve spent all this time improving. That being said if you do experience pain either currently or during any of these movements, STOP and then go get it checked out. Being injured is a great way to confine yourself to the sofa for 3 to 8 months. Visit your Doctor, a Physical Therapist or Chiropractor. These exercises are designed to move the joint through its full range, not to feel strained.
To frame the context of these exercises, try to sprinkle them in everyday if you can or just within your workouts at the gym before a climbing session. The setting of your posture will aid in muscle recruitment. What we’re trying to do is combat the years of climbing, pull up’s, slouching over a keyboard.This takes time, there’s no quick fix and takes a little bit of work everyday.
Tea Cups
1. Hold your hand at belly button height, palm facing up, try and keep your palm in this orientation throughout the movement.
2. Move your hand to behind your back
3. Extend your hand as far out to the side as you can
4. Bring your hand over your head and return to start.
Try 10 each side. Click here for the video.
Mantis
1. Lie face down and hold your wrist. It doesn’t matter which hand is on top
2. Raise your hands as high as you can and release your wrist
3. Trace a big arc with your arms from the start position to touching fingers above your head. Keep your hands as high off of the floor as you can. Your chest will raise a little but try to keep the work in your shoulders as oppose to effort in your lower back
4. Trace the arc back to the start position keeping your arms high.
Repeat the movement 10 times. Click here for the video.
Y + L
For this movement grab some light free weights 3-8lbs. Be sure to draw you shoulders away from your ears throughout.
1. Start with the weights down by your sides. From here raise your arms at 45deg up to over your head finishing in a Y with your whole body.
2. Reverse the movement and return to the start position
3. Now bring your elbows up and out to the side so that a straight line can be drawn from elbow to elbow with your hands hanging freely from them.
4. Rotate from the shoulder bringing the weights in arc finishing in an L shape with each of your arms.
5. Reverse the movement so and return to the start position.
Repeat the whole sequence 10 times. Reduce the weight if needed. Click here for the video.
Don’t rush through these movements trying to push your range or reps. Start slow and concentrate on the motions. This will hope to be the start of a stronger and more injury free climbing career.
If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact Josh at joshuajubb@gmail.com
– Joshua Jubb